суббота, 12 апреля 2008 г.

As we went to Maldives

Process of selection of hotel on Maldives where we planned to go in the end of March - the beginning of April, was not strongly simple. It was found out, that from hundreds hotels with the Russian tour operators some pieces work all. And at the others for our tour operators - "excuse, all is occupied", and all-the-year-round. As a result our firms offer literally some hotels (different categories) which with them work and are guided basically by the Russian tourists - that is there practically only the Russian tourists and have a rest. (By the way, it is all it was showed literally last years: in the beginning of 2000th years for the Russian tour operators of problems with the order of numbers almost in any hotels was not.) And to us not that that would not be desirable to have a rest among only one compatriots (though it too influenced - compatriots in the fatherland already have slightly bothered, as well as we it), but offered variants did not like: even the best hotel from given by tour operator had mass of disadvantages and settled down very close to the airport - at a forum of hotel the people constantly complained, that planes fly by directly over a head, and it somehow at all did not smile to us.

It was possible to book, of course, room in any liked hotel directly - simply having reserved on a card through the Internet. However we there still never were, to fly there - lines knows how many, therefore on first time have decided not to risk and order all the same through tour operator.

Have touched somewhere from tens hotels, but all of them have given up to our tour operator - a pier, there are no places. At last have found absolutely new hotel which has been started in 2008, and so it, owing to recent occurrence, first, has not been especially filled, and secondly, accepted everybody - even us, dangerous Russian.

Longly studied a hotel site, read responses (basically Frenchmen, British and Germans). Actually, "hotel" - the term not quite correct. It not hotel, and island on which the complex of various institutions (a reception, sports, SPA settles down) and is immediate country houses in which live having a rest. In the name it also has been reflected - Herathera Island Resort.


Country houses Herathera

The people at a forum wrote, that country houses - excellent, meal and service - too remarkable, and here island for the present wildish: a pier, it is visible, that it only have started to improve and it has not reached yet a stage of unreal beauty of traditional Maldivian islands. On the other hand, some rejoiced having a rest, even it is good, that it is not similar to the others supposedly smoothed beauty for a long time has bothered, so it would be desirable something natural. Well and all said, that for fans of diving and diving (swimming with a mask and a tube) here at all a fountain: the ocean at beaches of country houses boring, is not enough fish, and near to some country houses - and in general sea cucumbers which spoil all magic Maldivian kind float, and on coast are thrown out, framing an unpleasant brown strip along a beach. Cucumbers, the truth, constantly clean, but nevertheless.

To swim for a while, as in an aquarium, there all the same is where, but for this purpose it is necessary to get out on a boat which takes out tourists to the basic reef few times in day.

We, having read all it, thought-thought, but have solved, what not the ocean all the same does not frighten us of strong diving: from us divers precisely same, as well as water bikers, and that such the water biker - we in general never knew. The decent country house, good service, ocean, a beach, a personal garden and not strongly plentiful, but healthy meal were necessary to us. Excursions us not especially interested, animation and discos - too so eventually have decided, that the given variant approaches. And as there it will appear actually - well so we will see, eventually...

This island that is characteristic, is considerably further the others - already behind equator, in a southern part of globe. Therefore to it still it is necessary to fly by the local plane, and then still to float on a boat. From variants of flights to Male (capital of Maldive Islands) it was offered two: direct Russian charter-party by the corresponding plane or the comfortable liner of regular flight to the Emirates of airlines to Dubai, there three rest-hours, then the same regular flight to Male. And both variants cost almost equally: direct charter-party or regular with transplantation in Dubai.

We have chosen regular flights. Charter-party - it always unpredictable. Predictedly there only quality of the plane - it always either bad, or awful. Charter-party can be late at a start and practically always strongly is late after homing. Besides takes off and arrives during as much as possible inconvenient time. Well it, this charter-party, we have solved...

The road to island has turned out, of course, serious. It to you not to Turkey three hours to fly. Though planes of airlines "Emirates" have simply amazed: I anywhere did not meet such comfort and quality. Armchairs wide, convenient, distance to a forward armchair big enough, also are even a falling support for feet. In a backrest of a forward armchair - the TV screen, under it - the individual panel. On this screen you can: to observe flight process (the plane image moves on a card with designations), to receive the information on flight, and the main thing - to see the image coming from two chambers, established in a nose and the plane bottom; to listen to tens radio channels, to look tens television channels, to look for choice any of almost hundred films of the diversified categories; to play any video games from presented several tens, and in many games it is possible to play with neighbours in the plane. From a panel underside there is phone to which can take advantage - for separate money. Also you can receive the Internet for small money for the laptop - to fall not to rise! Films are shown in a player regimen: at any moment it is possible to stop a picture, to rewind and so on. However, on all films there were Arabian subtitles, but it it is quite possible to go through.



Service and meal also were very good, but I in the presence of similar entertainments on this all attention somehow did not turn: has been occupied by viewing of pair new films in English which has not had time to look in Moscow, then has given due to games then observed real process of planting through a videocamera - the fascinating show is more tremendous.

When left the plane in Dubai, at the same time has looked, that such business-and the first class in the Emirates. The Business class was as the first class, for example, in Delta, and here the first class - such I still never saw: there not simply separate armchairs, and the whole complexes with the huge panel on the right in which that only it is not included. Details to make out, unfortunately, it was not possible, but this all was looked extremely impressively.

The airport in Dubai - huge and extremely beautiful. About its size says at least that fact, that from the plane by the bus we were carried minutes by fifteen. And the bus did two stoppings: one - for transients, another - to Dubai.

Building for going passengers - very simple form: something like the huge three-storyed gallery extended at length. From the extremity there to go to the extremity the minimum of minutes twenty but if you hasten it is possible to use mobile tapes.

On the ground floor - paradise duty free: shops of any sizes and for all tastes. It is said that the best in the world. We, however, would not like to go on duty free at all, therefore it has been decided to take a walk there on a return way.

On the second floor - any cafes, bines - and VIP-halls, small restaurants and so on. There still there is a big paid comfortable waiting room with all convenient armchairs, TVs, snack and binge - we wanted was to go there, but have seen the present Irish pub and have decided to sit down there: casting Guiness, stakes, wings-barbecues - in general, was than to be engaged three hours.

The only thing - slightly was disturbed by confusion with the schedule. The plane to Male as followed from the schedule, went from the third gate. But our number of flight from a boarding pass (we have received them in Moscow) has been specified in the twenty fifth gate, and it took off for any Colombo on Sri Lanka. And the basic problem consisted that the third and twenty fifth gates settled down exactly in the opposite extremities of a hall, that is between them was minutes twenty walkings.

It was necessary to go to understand to an information rack. It has appeared, that our gate - the third. And when we there have come, have seen inscription Colombo, instead of Male. By it absolutely were stunned, but then all was found out: this flight at first flies to Male, and then therefrom - in Colombo.

Have arrived in Male, capital of Maldive Islands. Here there the airport bears a strong resemblance to the old Sochi: a small stocky building in which practically anything is not present. On a small platform before the airport - as in Antalia: racks of travel agencies which meet the tourists and carry them on hotels. To us there have informed, that the local plane to wait three more and a half an hour - it flies only two once a day. It is impossible to tell, that it has strongly pleased us, but I expected something similar. However the meeting guide from hotel has not thrown having a rest on a destiny arbitrariness: us at once have registered in unit of local flights, have told, in how many it is necessary to approach for a start then the guide has taken away us in any decent cafe with ice-cream and drinks where it was possible to sit comfortably, and there from us money did not take - type as a compliment from hotel for expectation. We not fans of ice-cream so have ruined them on one coffee and two bottles of water, but it was all the same pleasant - though any care.

From Male to the necessary island (Ghana) hour with the small flies the small local plane. However it at all Messerschmitt and not the hydroplan - normal two-engined in which dangles nothing and does not collapse, and the stewardess even carried drinks and any wafers.

(And I have suddenly recollected, how on May, 9th from Sochi the plane about fifteen years ago flied to Krasnodar on similar. Only at that all time something jingled and fell off, the stewardess from safety all flight has stayed fastened to the armchair, the crew in an insole was drunk on the occasion of a holiday and all road shouted songs. The second pilot (or it was the navigator - I do not know) constantly left a cabin to communicate to passengers, and then, definitively having got tired, has gone to a toilet to struggle with a vodka overabundance, and before planting therefrom, in my opinion, and did not leave. I do not know, how we then have managed to land. Probably, the pilot had wide experience of flights in an insole the drunk. Probably, in another way it to fly already and was not able.)

The plane flied over islands at rather small height, and it was very interesting to look in a window - all islands as at palms.


Island Heratera

In the course of flight we is absolutely casual (for us) have crossed equator, and skill of the pilot deserves a separate mention - us at all has not shaken. I only have thought, that by the ship equator crossing is arranged with any festivals, and here anybody does not turn attention, as suddenly the stewardess has got any reading and writing from a locker and began to hand over them to all passengers. It has appeared, that it is beautiful nominal certificates on the equator crossing, executed on four tongues, including Russian (!). Amusing and nice service.

Have arrived on Ghana. It is a small islet on which it is not clear what ways the landing strip is located. There us (the whole group of the various passengers going on Heratera) have met, have selected luggage, have planted on the bus and have carried to a boat. Then even minutes twenty on boats (they float very quickly and if to consider, that from above over benches only an awning, - the powerful counter stream of air frames very original sensations) - and at last we on a place! From the moment of departure in the airport there have passed practically days - a little serious entertainment.

Herathera Island Resort

Heratera (the word what sincere) represents the narrow and strongly extended island. In a diameter it of metres hundred-two hundred, and extent of a tourist zone - kilometre four, judging by that from the extremity in its extremity it was possible to pass minutes for forty. For residing having a rest it is given only two kinds of premises: a usual country house and a country house from a jacuzzi. And usual country houses settle down on one party of island, and a country house from a jacuzzi - on another. Country houses quite comfortable: a terrace with two chaise lounges, chairs and a little table from ocean; the basic room of metres 35, in which except a huge bed with bed curtains from mosquitoes still a desktop, a sofa, a coffee table and the Zhk-panel with a DVD-player; a hall with wardrobe, the safe, a refrigeration cabinet and tea accessories, and also a spacious bathroom with the shower, leaving on one more terrace closed from different directions without a roof on which two chaise lounges are established, an umbrella from the sun and a huge jacuzzi. (Country houses without a jacuzzi differ only absence of a jacuzzi.)


Country house inside

The next country house settles down metres in four, however such neighbourhood does not frame impression of a communal flat: at each country house the piece of a garden and a beach turns out.

That is interesting, one party of island is bathing only - on which leaves percent seventy country houses. On an opposite side the strong current and decent waves, and a bottom is covered by fragments of corals and stones, therefore there is strictly forbidden to bathe. And a kind on that party - that still: fragments, ocean muddy stick out and it seems rather dirty. On that party there are three complexes of country houses - do not envy their inhabitants.


Ocean from an underside

This island does not have the "a house reef", therefore to float at ocean near to country houses with a mask it be no point: corals are not present, it is few fish, a bottom boring and uninteresting. Besides, metres hundred very finely, and the ocean gets warm degrees to 37 so bathing somehow does not freshen. To reach cool water, it is necessary to walk or float big enough distance.


Ocean from the correct party

However any divings here, certainly, prosper, it is just necessary to leave a little far away on a special boat which free of charge takes out having a rest two times a day - after a breakfast and after a dinner. It brings interested persons on a reef where you float as in an aquarium: corals, heaps of the diversified fishes, clivuses, small sharks and other amusing beings.

Island, as well as promised in responses, it is yet strongly improved: any wild thickets, violently growing scrubs and palm trees over which permanent jobs by forces of local aunts from villages, however, are conducted - them bring the whole brigades and they all day long root out something, clear away, land and so on. Many trees, plants and palm trees do not get accustomed: dry up and burn out on the sun. Then them dig out and put the new.

Restaurants on island only two: on northern and southern parties. Thus, if will not carry, it will be necessary to reach restaurant of minutes twenty-thirty on foot. For this reason here many go by bicycles: them give in hire on any quantity of days. Besides, on island any tourist cars and minibuses which bring up all interested persons ply.

With entertainments here all is the extremely modest. Three bars with pools, SPA-salon (by the way, quite good), a modest sports hall, shop with specialties and the diving centre. In the evenings in bars DJs drive a music and something is spent type of discos on which two-three persons light.


Bar with pool

That here the magnificent was found in meal by having a rest, writing responses at a forum, I not strongly understand. Feed more or less, with hunger we do not die, however assortment - at level of Turkish 3-4 stars. And about what-features to speak and it is not necessary at all - kitchen very simple, without trick. Besides, slightly irritates that fact, that for a breakfast, a dinner and a supper it is taken away strictly for two hours and if a breakfast till 9:30, and you have come exactly at 9:30 - is there will be already nothing, because somewhere at 9:20 waiters start all to clean hastily.

Food kind here always full board, that is a breakfast-dinner-supper because no other restaurants from the menu on island are present. Also there is variant All Inclusive when drinks and local alcohol enter into cost, however through the Russian tour operators this kind to order it is impossible - they refuse to Russian in All Inclusive. However, after the arrival on island you can take All Inclusive on all living in a country house (separately - it is forbidden), and it will manage in 35 dollars on the person a day. And so, it of that is not necessary even nearby! All Inclusive concerns only breakfasts-dinners-suppers (and to bars if it is a question only of beer and local drinks), and there enter a small small bottle of water on one person (the second will give, but with a scratch), beer on draught Carlsberg, white and red table home wine the extremely modest quality (in good hotels of Turkey local wine was much better), well and a local hard liquor which we have not risked to try. In bars normal drinks all the same for separate money so this All Inclusive simply does not pay off - well, that we it and did not begin to take.

In country houses two times a day - around a breakfast and before a supper are cleaned. Daily bring the big bottle of water and update assortment of teas. Serve and are cleaned only men - women we saw exclusively on plantings and beach cleaning.


Country house terrace

With impression service too a little dual. Basically serve well and behave very benevolently. However in bars all sharply varies: such sensation, that there have typed inhabitants absolutely other villages which have not tested the British sovereignty, therefore badly speak English (that usually for them is not characteristic - in English there speak everything, and very decently), and in general - any freezed. They slowly go, a little that understand, and the elementary requests can cause in them a moral collapse.

Yesterday, for example, have ordered in the evening a milk cocktail "Pina-Colada". Have just in case shown a line in the menu - that the waiter was precisely cut. That has left. The cocktail which they free of charge give having a rest with All Inclusive has come and has brought are the caramels dissolved in water with a rum drop. A cocktail of brightly red colour. We have asked the waiter: "It is valid
Pina-Colada"? That has for a long time reflected, has then shaken a head, has taken away a cocktail and has left. It has returned in five minutes with the same cocktail, has put it on a table and has faded. I have called up the manager of a hall who decently spoke English, and have asked to bring it not a solution of caramels, and a cocktail which at least will be outwardly similar on "Pina-Colada". Not red, not dark blue, not the violet. White. Because there coconut milk. Should be. And cream. Therefore it white. Not the red. You understand?

The manager has understood, because in five minutes to us have brought a cocktail of white colour. However, the cocktail even was worse, than it do in Moscow, - coconut milk was not absolutely (it on Maldives!), and that they on a glass have hung an orange lobe (it in a milk cocktail), it is necessary to kill all on a place, including any managers of halls. But, on the other hand, it really was white colour - here will not argue.

However, in bars sensible waiters, but this obvious exception to the rules occasionally come across. Other or terrible brakes, or in general something unimaginable: for example, one such cheerful waiter from a bar has approached to our little table and has asked factory "Java" sigarette. To us, in general, it is not a pity, but the waiter, shooting cigarettes at lodgers, - my best compliments to management.

The people here while very much and have not enough. The reasons for that a little. First, the complex only has opened. Secondly, over territory and an infrastructure here still to work and work. Thirdly, it is the farthest island on Maldives. Fourthly, in the presence of certain pluses of disadvantages here - above a roof. Well and fifthly - here plainly it nothing divers.


Beach line

Apparently, the complex is not filled and on a quarter. Country houses basically are not occupied, at pools of full free armchairs and plank beds, at restaurant the tenth part of little tables is filled, and even in the evening in a bar is almost empty. And, strangely enough, Russian here while most - it is probable, they, as well as we, have pecked on new hotel which works with the Russian tour operators. Russian, by my estimations, percent fifty, after them most of all Frenchmen. Well also there are still Germans, it is a little British and northerners (Norway, Iceland).

Germans light here basically. We sat yesterday and stirred at pool with one Russian by name of Paul who lives in the next country house, and observed, that the company of Germans got up. They shouted, laughed loudly so, that them was audible in Australia, sneezed, made a meteorism and fell in pool so that on-maximum to fill in all around. Demanded from waiters to submit beer and cocktails directly to pool (that, certainly, it is forbidden), have fallen down in water a chaise lounge - in general, had a good time under the full program.

Russian silently sat on angles of a platform and drank beer. As with beer in this bar all was very ridiculous: unlike a bar located in the end of island, the same beer (casting Carlsberg) costed more expensively almost for two dollars, but it spilt not in half litre mugs, and in 330-millilitrovye and also did not add somewhere a quarter. On a direct question what line for our money in these measuring tubes also such concrete incomplete filling, fight, fairly looking in eyes, has explained that is the car so the mass, and the car - it spills, the sir, cannot be mistaken. And here still Paul (it the businessman, but in the past - the professional sportsman) the beginnings to show me artful receptions of fight on knifes and any boxing shifts therefore the waiter who and so not strongly often appeared at our little table, in general has run away to a bar rack and stuck out there, gleaming eyes and not reacting on appeals. But though Germans, looking at Paul, somehow have quickly calmed down and have ceased to behave outrageously.

You think, we remained without beer? No, we have applied military cunning: have risen from an armchair and have pretended, that we leave. This villain the waiter has there and then come tearing along with accounts which we have signed, however at once have given out it the new order. Also have told, that tip will be directly proportional to rate of its occurrence with beer.

By the way, in a course here for some reason dollars. All prices in dollars: excursions, the menu in bars, the goods in a little shop. And dollars accept willingly only. Though also take euro and pounds - certainly, at the underestimated course. That is interesting, waiters refuse to take as euro tip in coins. It is said that coins then cannot change. Denominations it is possible any - euro, dollars, pounds, and here coins do not want. It was necessary to go to a reception and to exchange thirty euros for any fine dollars - for tip.

Have talked to some other Russian - have asked, as impressions of hotel. All have unanimously told, that country houses good, service tolerant, but an infrastructure - very poor. Let alone that entertainments are not present practically any. However it all the same Maldives, instead of Turkey. To Maldives go to enjoy kinds, to float at ocean, to be engaged in diving-snorkelingom and to receive thirty degrees of heat while in the homeland snow still lays. We, actually, behind it also have arrived, therefore are not disappointed yet. The ocean is, sand snow-white (the beach very carefully is daily cleaned), palm trees green, a country house comfortable - and what is necessary?

Decline on Heratera.

But I would not began to recommend this hotel because in comparison with other variants here it is a lot of disadvantages. At, I will notice, very solid price for residing - an order of 560 dollars for two in day (together with all flights and transfers).

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